My unusual holiday baking project this year involved making mince pies. While these little treats traditionally contained meat in the Victorian era, modern recipes usually use beef suet. Beef suet is the white hard fat found above the kidneys. I procured mine at the Ventura Meat Company, which offers grass fed local meat and was able to provide me with an oversize pound and a half boulder of the stuff for about four bucks. I also made a vegetarian-friendly batch with butter, setting up the perfect opportunity for a mince pie taste off, as well as a nice alternative in case my gastronomical fortitude ran out in the face of grated kidney fat.The main ingredients of mince pies include the more palatable finely chopped apples, two types of raisins, dried fruit (I used ginger and cherries), and candied orange peel, all well-seasoned with clove. The entire mix is stirred with sugar, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and brandy. The concoction is left to marinate in the fridge for several days before being entrusted to mini pie shells and baked. I adapted a recipe from epicurious, which turned out great and had the added benefit of including standard American measurements.
A few years ago I attempted to make panaforte and realized how difficult candied orange peel is to find. Most of the stuff tastes like wax and boasts phosphorescent colors that make me cringe. If you live in Ventura, Trufflehound was nice enough to sell me some candied orange peel and theirs is delicious. Normally, it is sold dipped in dark chocolate, but it is terrific for baking.
Assembling and chopping the ingredients for two batches took about an hour, and had me wishing I had pulled out the food processor. For the vegetarian version, I simply froze a chunk of butter, then grated it until I had the amount of suet the recipe called for. The butter grated quickly and easily. Your vegetarian friends would probably prefer you grate the butter first so that it doesn't mingle with the suet.
The process of grating the suet was pretty revolting. The fat looks smooth, but it threatens to slip from your fingers and once you start grating you realize it is hard and a bit gristly. I started out using a cheese grater attached to a tray, then moved on to a mirco planner, and finally considered finely chopping. I managed to just scrape together a 1/2 cup.
Ah, the pie crusts. I grew up on five minute pie crusts, so crusts have never been particularly traumatizing for me. However, I really enjoyed and recommend this great tutorial on making pie crusts and rolling and transfering them (which always seems to get left out). After the mince pie filling has soaked for a few days, I pulled out the food processor and made a batch of all butter pie dough. I also made a rival batch by hand. Then I filled some muffin tins with the dough, spooned in my mixture, and covered the mini pies with some dough cut out into shapes with a cookie cutter. I used the shapes to differentiate between the suet and the butter pies.
Ultimately, we decided we liked the flavor of the butter-based mince meat better. Using the suet was certainly interesting, but next time I will just focus on making the vegetarian version. In fact, I still have a bunch of the suet-based mince meat in my fridge. I hate to throw it out, but I'm not sure this is something one lists on craigslist. Perhaps I should just bring a jar to a British expat.

